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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.